This article covers installing a Custom and Speed Parts (CSP) front disk brake kit.
CSP provide both front and rear disk brake kits to cover most applications. Their web site has information on what kits are available. The instructions that come with the kits are, for the most case, clear and well written. In the UK Machine 7 and Creative Engineering are agents for CSP.
You may need to change your master cylinder when changing to disk brakes. CSP's web site has the details of what works.
Parts required Edit
- A CSP kit to suit your model
- Possibly a different master cylinder
- Maybe wheel nuts, as the kit involves swapping to studs
Tools required Edit
- A jack and axle stands
- Normal wheel changing equipment
- 24mm spanner
- A torque wrench capable of measuring up to 73Nm (77Nm for Type 3s)
It is important to check that your kit contains everything that it should, and that the parts supplied are correct. In particular check that the dust covers / backing plates will fit the caliper brackets and have the holes for attaching the two in the correct place.
You should also check that you've been given the right number and types of bolts to attach the caliper brackets to the spindles, though this may have to wait until you have stripped the existing brakes off your car.
Loosen the wheel nuts while the wheels are still on the ground.
Jack up the front of the car and put it on jack stands.
Remove the front hubs Edit
Back off the brakes to make it easier to remove the hubs.
Remove the center dust cap. The hub is held on to the spindle by two 24mm nuts with a lock tab between them.
This lock tab is folded down over one nut and up over the other to prevent either nut from turning. Unfold the tab from the outer nut with a screwdriver or similar so that you can undo the nuts, one at a time, and remembering that the nuts for the left hand wheel are left-handed, meaning you will have to turn them the opposite way to usual to remove them.
Once the nuts have been removed the hub can be pulled free. Be careful to not drop the bearings that will come out with the hub.
Remove the backing plates Edit
The entire brake assembly, shoes, cylinders, etc. is held to the spindle by two nuts and two bolts (although this varies according to model).
First disconnect the brake hose from the rear of the backing plate, then undo these nuts and bolts and everything will come free together.
Preparing the spindle Edit
The surface that the caliper bracket mounts to needs to be clean, free of rust, and smooth.
On some models there are extra bolts that hold the spindle to the steering arm. These need to come out and will be replaced with 10mm allen head screws that are supplied in the kit.
Installing the caliper bracket Edit
The caliper bracket is bolted onto the spindle using either allen head bolts or allen head bolts and nuts depending on the model. These bolts get torqued quite high (the CSP manual gives the torque figure), so you will need a decent allen head socket.
Installing the dust covers Edit
The dust covers are not used on all applications (for example when using CB Performance dropped spindles). They fit on with the M6 bolts. In some cases you will need to drill new holes. In this case it is possible to use one dust cover as a template to mark the positions of the holes on the other.
Installing the rotors Edit
The rotors, bearings and seal are assembled, ensuring that the bearings are properly greased.
The hub assembly is the placed on the spindle and the freeplay is set and the lock tab and outer nut installed.
Installing the brake pads Edit
The brake pads get installed in the calipers with the pins and springs (the metal clips). The pins get hammered home with a drift.
Installing the calipers Edit
The assembled calipers now get installed. Shims are needed between the caliper bracket and the caliper. The thickness of the shims vary according to the model you are working on. Go grab a beer and enjoy the work